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Pacman Frog Care Guide 🐸 Basic Care For Pacman Frogs

Updated: Apr 19, 2021


Now pacman frog is actually just a nickname for several different species of horned frogs. With their extremely wide mouths and voracious appetite, it’s no surprise this nickname caught on.

These frogs can get extremely large with some getting as big as 8 inches, and have a lifespan of up to 10 years, so you will get to enjoy your frog’s company for quite some time.

Pacman frogs are considered an observational pet, as frogs in general, should not be frequently handled, their skin can absorb the oils and chemical residues, left behind from soaps and hand sanitizers, from our hands.

Tank Set Up

Pacman frogs are a sit and wait type of predator, so they don’t require a very large space to jump around, as they tend to just burrow themselves into their substrate and wait for prey to come along.

Adult pacman frogs are typically kept in about a 10-gallon tank, while younger juveniles are often kept in 5-gallon tanks, so they can easily find their food.

You will want to keep a thermometer and hygrometer in the tank, to make sure you are meeting these frog’s temperature and humidity needs.

The ideal temperature range for the pacman frog is between 75°-85°

If you find that your tank goes below 75°, you may need a heater.

Because pacman frogs are kept in shallow tanks and many have a sensitivity to light, heat lamps are not typically recommended. Under the tank mats are commonly used for heating purposes, many times placed on the side of the tank or with a towel in between the tank mat and the tank, to prevent the frog from burning its abdomen when burrowing in the substrate.

The ideal humidity range for pacmans is between 40-80 percent. When the humidity starts to drop below 40 percent you will want to remist the tank and substrate. You do not want the tank to go above 80 percent humidity as this can cause mold to grow in the tank. You also want to allow for a drying time, to help prevent mold problems as well.

Now there is a big debate as to whether these frogs need uvb bulbs, as they are nocturnal most people will say they do not need one. If you do decide to get a uvb you will want to get a very low wattage bulb, these frogs have very sensitive skin, especially if you have an albino, and their skin can easily be damaged.

For substrate, coconut fiber is often used as it holds moisture well and allows for the frogs to burrow.

I do recommend avoiding moss, other than live planted moss, because it could pose an issue if you free feed the frogs in their tank, because the moss could cause an obstruction if they ingest it. Live moss does not pose this same issue, as they are not likely to ingest it.

For tank décor, keep in mind that pacman frogs do tend to bulldoze over things, so if you wish to keep live plants, it is best to plant them on the far sides, or back of the tank, to prevent them from being trampled.

While these frogs do absorb moisture through their skin, it is still recommended to keep a shallow water dish in their tank.

Pacman’s seem to enjoy a good soak in their water dish, but keep in mind these frogs are not at all strong swimmers, so the dish needs to be shallow enough that the frog can easily jump in and out of it.

When misting the tank and filling their water dish you will want to be sure to use dechlorinated water, you will also want to choose a dechlorinator that does not contain additives, many aquarium dechlorinators have additives for slime coat which could potentially be harmful if used over time.

You will also want to provide fresh clean water in their water dish daily, as pacman frogs are prone to getting bacterial infections from soaking in dirty water.


Pacman frogs will try to eat just about anything that will fit in their mouth, including other pacman frogs, and their diet can consist of a variety of things, dubia roaches, night crawlers, and crickets tend to be a staple, but they also enjoy pinkies and other insects occasionally.

If you do decide to feed them pinkies it is best to only feed about once a month because they are high in fat and they are not very nutritious for the frog, they also do have bones, that can be harder on the frogs digestive system.

As these frogs typically do not have uvb lights, you will want to add a calcium vitamin d3 supplement to their diet. Lightly dusting their crickets or roaches with a calcium vitamin d3 supplement powder when feeding will help prevent issues such as metabolic bone disease.


Until they reach maturity, it can be difficult to tell if your frog is male or female. In young frogs it is more of a guessing game to figure out the gender of your frogs. Some say that you can get a good idea if the frog is female it will have a more triangular shaped nose, while males have a flatter face, but this isn’t always accurate.

In adult frogs it is easier to tell the gender of your frog. Males typically have darker colored chests, while females’ chests stay mostly white. Male pacman frogs also tend to croak more frequently than females do.

The best way to tell if you have a male frog is, they will have a dark bump on their hands also known as nuptial pads. Male pacmans also typically only get to be around 3-4 inches in size, while females are usually much larger ranging from 5-7 inches with some females getting even larger!

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